Tuesday 23 June 2015

Adiós Botella...


I love this video - and not just because its protagonists are three scary-fabulous drag queens working it in some of the most emblematic locations of my beloved Madrid. I love it because it represents to me a lot of what I admire and, as an extanjero, find so interesting about the Spanish.

In order to explain what I mean by that, I need to give you a bit of background.

Kiki Lorace and her lovely ladies of the video are welcoming Manuela Carmena, a seventy-one year-old ex-judge to the alcaldía (Mayorship) of Madrid and politely saying “bugger off” to Ana Botella (drag on left), the previous Mayor who was not actually contesting this time, and her party-mate Esperenza Aguirre (drag on right), one of the most powerful and divisive forces in Spanish politics, who was hoping to keep the city in the hands of the conservative People’s Party (PP).

The fact that Manuela is now Mayor of Madrid is a pretty big deal.

On a local level, because it brings an end to 24 years of PP rule in the Spanish capital, something I imagine most drag queens (and anyone else of a progressive tilt) is pretty happy about.

On a national level it represents something extraordinary that has happened in Spain recently: the apparent end of the two-party dominated system that has characterised Spanish politics since the transition to democracy in 1978.

Manuela is a member of a party called Ahora Madrid (Now Madrid), which in reality isn’t exactly a party, but rather a collective of left-wing parties and community organisations. Very importantly, Ahora Madrid is backed by Podemos, a new political party that has emerged with a bang of Spain’s political scene.

Here’s a pretty in depth story from the Guardian about Podemos, so I won’t go too much into it, apart from to say that the party evolved from a grass-roots movement that was, amongst other things, fed up with what they saw as the inaction of the traditional political parties to alleviate the misery that the financial crisis has wrought on the people of this country.

Spain’s second city, Barcelona, is celebrating a new alcaldesa (Mayor) too - Ada Colau. Her group, Barcelona en Comú is similar to that of Manuela and also has connections with Podemos. Colau entered public life as the controversial leader of a community group dedicated to stopping the evictions of people unable to pay their rent or mortgage.


Campaign poster for Ada Colau's successful run for Mayor of Barcelona

And in Spain’s other major cities, Podemos and other new political parties and coalitions have taken the top jobs or facilitated the changing of the guard.

The truth is, nobody really knows whether these new parties and coalitions will be stable enough to actually work, but a great many voters are obviously prepared to take the risk in the search to for something they feel is better than the traditional politics.

Now back to the video. It has always been in the best traditions of drag to be political. “Men dressing up in women’s clothing and mouthing the words to other people’s songs,” as Guy Pierce’s character says in The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert is not just about men wanting to dress up in frocks (although I’m sure there is a lot of that). It’s also about making a statement, challenging the accepted gender roles in society and everything that that represents.

But having said, I’m finding it hard to remember any recent time when a bunch of drag queens got so excited about a political party that they bothered to make a music video celebrating it – at least one with such good production values.

Kiki & Co's excitement wasn’t an isolated incident either. Graphic designers and artists developed pro-Manuela imagery and uploaded it to social networks, taxi drivers donated the sides of their cabs for campaign posters, all manner of people organised themselves to lend their time and skills in support of Manuela.

An animated gif from an artist involved in the Madrid with Manuela collective
- a sort of unofficial campaign group for Manuela's bid to be Mayor of Madrid

It is this get-up-and-go, this ability to self-organise in the most creative, interesting and effective ways - so often with the good humour shown in the video - that I find so admirable about the Spanish. In fact, I've written about it before.

And whether or not you agree that this new politics is the way forward for Spain, or anywhere for that matter, I don’t think there is any denying that the courage and optimism it conveys, let alone its recent successes, is very exciting.

Tuesday 16 June 2015

Road-trip to Italy! (¡A Italia! por carretera)

I know it’s a bit of cliché to say so, but one of the things I enjoy the most about living in Europe is the proximity to different cultures and languages.

From just about anywhere you can hop on a plane at breakfast time and by lunch be choosing (if somewhat unsurely) what you want to eat from a menu written in a different language. And what’s more, from many places you can do the same just by jumping on a train or in the car.

We did just that the other week: breakfast in Barcelona and lunch in Montpellier. I got the biggest thrill out of it. It would seem that all these years in Europe still haven’t robbed this son of an island continent of the wonder of being able to drive to another country.

500 metres to France. Driving into another country still gives me a thrill

This whole trip was actually a little longer than just BCN-Montpellier-BCN though: we were on our way to Italy. I wouldn’t drive to Montpellier from Barcelona just for lunch – it’s about a 4-hour drive, which makes it a bit of trek just for the day.

A much better choice from Barcelona is Perpignan – it’s just north of the border, two hours-drive away. We did that this Easter. It’s a very pretty little town, the centre of which is a lovely mix of southern French, Catalan and Parisian-style architecture; small enough to have a good walk around and a nice unrushed lunch before heading home.

Some views of Perpignan

But back to the Italian trip: we were off to see G’s family in Florence for the first time since we got married. A big party was being planned for us. And when I say big, I mean My Big Fat Greek Wedding-style big. G is one of 13 brothers and sisters!

The drive from Barcelona to Florence is about 14 hours or so if you do it non-stop. It’s basically all motorways – or to be more precise: Spanish autopistas, French autoroutes and Italian autostradas - so it’s not exactly a difficult drive, but unless I were in a huge rush, I wouldn’t do it non-stop.

In fact, if I were in a huge rush, I wouldn’t drive in the first place. It’s a 90-minute flight from Barcelona to Florence - and it’s cheaper than driving. We worked out that we spent about 100€ each way in tolls, around 100€ each way on fuel and, so far, 135€ in speeding fines (3 speed-camera fines in the space of just 20 minutes in France!) I say “so far” as these fines came in just the other day and only pertain to our first day of driving. I’m a little concerned.

Anyway, we weren’t in any great rush and were looking on it as a bit of a road-trip adventure. We wanted to check out some scenery, I wanted to indulge my thrill for driving between countries, and G had a whole heap of stuff he wanted to bring to his family.

The route took us past the vineyards of four French wine regions - the Roussillon, Languedoc, lower Rhone and Provence - all surprisingly different in appearance. We drove over the mighty river Rhone itself, across the top of the stunningly beautiful Cote dÁzur, past the countless monasteries and villages perched so precariously on top of Liguria’s coastal mountain ranges and skirted the white mountains of Tuscany’s marble quarries. Finally we were amongst the rolling olive groves, vineyards and villas surrounding the home of the Renaissance. A visually spectacular trip.

A cruise ship in the bay in front of the beautiful (if very touristy) village of Villefranche-sur-Mer, near Nice

Nice's old-town (Vieille Ville) reminded me a lot of Italy. This is the Cathédrale Sainte Réparate
in the Place Rossetti (which sounds Italian too)

A village perched on top of a mountain in Italy's Liguria region.
(Not a great photo as taken through the barrier whilst driving over a viaduct, but you get the idea)

All that white is not snow (which I though it was at first), it's marble. The Carrara marble quarries in Tuscany

Although you wouldn't guess it, this hill looks right-over central Florence

Driving on the motorways themselves was something of an adventure too, especially in the mountainous regions where viaduct-after-tunnel-after-viaduct carries you deep through mountains and ridiculously high across valleys. The engineering is impressive (and helps explain why these roads are not cheap to drive on) and a wee bit scary at times too as you share some rather narrow lanes with monster trucks barrelling along way too fast.

We didn’t do the whole drive in one go. We stopped for a couple of nights in Menton (not far from Nice) to soak up the beauty of the Cote d’Azur. While there we stayed off the autoroute and explored the area via the winding, cliff-hugging coastal roads that offer the most stunning views of both the beautiful villages and the blue, blue sea that gives the area it’s name.

Menton. It's the last French town before Italy, which is literally a one minute drive from where I took this photo 

The view from one of the cliff-top roads between Nice and Menton. Spectacular
If we had had more time, I would have also stopped a night or two further back to sniff around some of the wine country, as well as a night or two along the Liguria coast - Portofino or even Genoa. You could make a great trip out of that.

Portovenere, on the Liguria coast. We stopped here for lunch on the final leg to Florence (and brought some excellent pesto too)

Stunnning Florence. My dad's family actually came from here hundreds of years ago. Now I've married into another Florentine family

Although we weren’t in a rush, we were on a timetable: we had that big family party to get to. It was after all the main reason for our trip. And it was sensational too. G’s family are the most welcoming of people and they do love to have a good time – all 46 of them! I felt most welcomed to the family.

My new Florentine family. Phew!