Adiós Botella...

I love this video - and not just because its protagonists are three scary-fabulous drag queens working it in some of the most emblematic locations of my beloved Madrid. I love it because it represents to me a lot of what I admire and, as an extanjero, find so interesting about the Spanish.

In order to explain what I mean by that, I need to give you a bit of background.

Kiki Lorace and her lovely ladies of the video are welcoming Manuela Carmena, a seventy-one year-old ex-judge to the alcaldía (Mayorship) of Madrid and politely saying “bugger off” to Ana Botella (drag on left), the previous Mayor who was not actually contesting this time, and her party-mate Esperenza Aguirre (drag on right), one of the most powerful and divisive forces in Spanish politics, who was hoping to keep the city in the hands of the conservative People’s Party (PP).

The fact that Manuela is now Mayor of Madrid is a pretty big deal.

On a local level, because it brings an end to 24 years of PP rule in the Spanish capital, something I imagine most drag queens (and anyone else of a progressive tilt) is pretty happy about.

On a national level it represents something extraordinary that has happened in Spain recently: the apparent end of the two-party dominated system that has characterised Spanish politics since the transition to democracy in 1978.

Manuela is a member of a party called Ahora Madrid (Now Madrid), which in reality isn’t exactly a party, but rather a collective of left-wing parties and community organisations. Very importantly, Ahora Madrid is backed by Podemos, a new political party that has emerged with a bang of Spain’s political scene.

Here’s a pretty in depth story from the Guardian about Podemos, so I won’t go too much into it, apart from to say that the party evolved from a grass-roots movement that was, amongst other things, fed up with what they saw as the inaction of the traditional political parties to alleviate the misery that the financial crisis has wrought on the people of this country.

Spain’s second city, Barcelona, is celebrating a new alcaldesa (Mayor) too - Ada Colau. Her group, Barcelona en Comú is similar to that of Manuela and also has connections with Podemos. Colau entered public life as the controversial leader of a community group dedicated to stopping the evictions of people unable to pay their rent or mortgage.

Campaign poster for Ada Colau's successful run for Mayor of Barcelona

And in Spain’s other major cities, Podemos and other new political parties and coalitions have taken the top jobs or facilitated the changing of the guard.

The truth is, nobody really knows whether these new parties and coalitions will be stable enough to actually work, but a great many voters are obviously prepared to take the risk in the search to for something they feel is better than the traditional politics.

Now back to the video. It has always been in the best traditions of drag to be political. “Men dressing up in women’s clothing and mouthing the words to other people’s songs,” as Guy Pierce’s character says in The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert is not just about men wanting to dress up in frocks (although I’m sure there is a lot of that). It’s also about making a statement, challenging the accepted gender roles in society and everything that that represents.

But having said, I’m finding it hard to remember any recent time when a bunch of drag queens got so excited about a political party that they bothered to make a music video celebrating it – at least one with such good production values.

Kiki & Co's excitement wasn’t an isolated incident either. Graphic designers and artists developed pro-Manuela imagery and uploaded it to social networks, taxi drivers donated the sides of their cabs for campaign posters, all manner of people organised themselves to lend their time and skills in support of Manuela.

An animated gif from an artist involved in the Madrid with Manuela collective
- a sort of unofficial campaign group for Manuela's bid to be Mayor of Madrid

It is this get-up-and-go, this ability to self-organise in the most creative, interesting and effective ways - so often with the good humour shown in the video - that I find so admirable about the Spanish. In fact, I've written about it before.

And whether or not you agree that this new politics is the way forward for Spain, or anywhere for that matter, I don’t think there is any denying that the courage and optimism it conveys, let alone its recent successes, is very exciting.

The Madrid bombings, ten years on (Diez años despues del 11-M)...

This week, on the 11^th of March, we marked the 10^th anniversary of Spain’s worst-ever terrorist attack. On the eve of that anniversary, something happened that hasn’t been seen in this country since 2007: all the main Victims of Terrorism groups stood together in an act of remembrance of that terrible day.

It seems unbelievable that this could be the case; that such an atrocity didn’t unite the country as it did the United States after September 11. Of course, in the beginning it did, but it didn’t take long for politics to pollute things. 

On that crisp morning of March 11, 2004, fundamentalist Islamic terrorists left 13 backpacks chock-full of explosives on four of Madrid’s suburban trains (Cercanías). Using the clocks in mobile phones, the bombs were timed to go off within minutes of each other during the hora punta (rush hour). The result was 191 passengers killed and more than 1800 injured.

I wasn’t living in Madrid at the time, but I can understand the disbelief, pain and fear the Madrileños would have suffered that day. I was a London resident when, just a little over a year later, its transport system was attacked and its people killed.

The day after the attack, more than two million Madrileños braved the pouring rain to take to the streets in both homage to the victims and to furiously demand an end to terrorism in their country. Similar marches were held all over the country. The solidarity and dignity visible in the images of Madrid’s main thoroughfares filled to overflowing in a sea of umbrellas and banners are both impressive and very moving.

But the attacks took place just three days out from a general election. Up until 11-M, as the Spanish call both this day and the attacks, the incumbent government of the conservative Partido Popular (People’s Party - PP) was ahead of the opposition Socialist Party in almost all the polls.

The government’s immediate conclusion, and that of just about everyone else, put the blame squarely on the shoulders of the Basque terrorist group ETA. It made sense; ETA terror had cost the lives of more than 800 people in Spain during their 30-odd years (at the time) of violent activity.

Very quickly however, literally in a matter of hours, doubts began to arise in the minds of police, security forces, terrorism experts and journalists - militant Islam started to look like a possible culprit. But the government steadfastly refused to accept that ETA was not the perpetrator and in press conference-after-press conference, press release-after-press release, it insisted ETA was to blame.

The opposition seized on this refusal in the face of the mounting evidence. Soon people were demonstrating in the streets demanding to know “¿Quien ha sido?” (“Who was it?”). And of course, the connection was made between the government’s (highly unpopular) robust support for the Iraq War and the attacks.

Whether it was the Iraq connection or the fact that the government’s belligerent denial of what was seemingly becoming undeniable led people to feel it was trying to hoodwink them, come election-day the Aznar government was swept from power.

The political lines had been drawn right through the middle of the atrocity. The Right accused the Left of using Iraq to blame the government for the terrorist attacks in order to win the election. The Left accused the Right of refusing to accept fundamentalist Islamic terrorism as the culprit because ETA was more politically advantageous. Even worse would come later.

Just over two weeks after the attacks, seven of the terrorists (all Islamists) blew themselves up in a flat in the south of Madrid when cornered by the police and security forces. Three years later, Spain's Audencia Nacional (National High Court) determined the attacks to be the work of fundamentalist Islamists and convicted 21 people. It found no evidence of the involvement of ETA or of other conspiracies.

But Aznar and some other members of the PP have never stopped insisting on ETA’s authorship of the attacks,that they had worked together with the Islamists. Another far more sinister conspiracy theory that emerged is that the attacks were in fact a Socialists coup aimed at winning the general election and that police, security forces, intelligence agencies, judges, prosecutors, witnesses and others were involved.

The attacks by the conservative media supporting these conspiracy theories were so voracious that they have been accused of costing lives. One was the wife of a local councillor who was involved in the collection of personal belongings from the train attacked in his district.

One of the backpacks collected actually contained an unexploded bomb from the attack - the phone inside of which would lead police straight to the terrorists in that flat in Madrid's south. His credibility was attacked with such viciousness that his wife committed suicide. Another was the owner of a bar who refused to put up a flyer supporting the ETA connection. He was shot dead by the person who had wanted to put up the flyer.

The politicisation of 11-M infected the different Victims of Terrorism groups, some siding with some level of conspiracy theory and others accepting the official findings. The sad result has been that over the last 10 years, on the anniversary of the attacks, separate memorials have been held by the different victims' groups, with members of the different political parties attending different memorials.

That is why those four ladies standing together at Monday’s memorial service was so significant. Perhaps it was a sign that, ten years on, the worst of politics is starting to retreat from the 11-M, giving some space for Madrid and Spain to grieve and heal in peace and dignity. I just find it a shame that it was those who have suffered the most who had to take the first steps.